5 Nov 2010

Rolling out the tanks

I'm sure that a lot of you are wondering why I don't publish reviews of pubs anymore and are too shy to ask me. The answer is easy, I'm saving them for my book! But I wanted to make an exception today with a place I found just by chance, Restaurace Kopyto.
I came across it on Monday, on my way between two clients. It's located at one end of the infamous Bořivojova, in Žižkov, near Riegrový Sady. It is said that there are around 30 pubs in this street, but what caught my attention about this one was the slogan above the door "První Lobkowiczká Tankovna". That's right, the people from K Brewery have started to sell tankové pivo.

I was in a hurry that day, but I only had to wait until Wednesday to make my first visit to Kopyto. I took a seat in the small room by the chamber that houses the tanks. The place is pretty big, divided in several spacious rooms, with simple, but rather welcoming decoration. There wasn't much of an atmosphere, it was shortly past lunch time and also everything felt and looked brand new, and it was; one of the waitresses told me they had opened the Friday before.
I didn't have anything to eat, I had already stopped for lunch at the excellent Kralovství, which I hadn't visited for ages. The lunch menu seemed quite interesting, though, and the food I saw passing by didn't look too shabby, either. The service was flawless. Both waitresses were very attentive, friendly and professional. Yes, there weren't many people in, but many times it happens that the promptness of the service is inversely proportional to the number of patrons at a given time.

But what really interested me about this pub was Lobkowicz Premium tanková. Although I find it improved compared to the first time I drank it, I still don't like this beer. I still think it's unbalanced and the Protivín yeasts used to brew it still bother me. (I'm sure that the people of KBG find all this very amusing, the beer is doing really well). Its tanková version didn't win my heart, either. It's got a bit of a fuller taste, but all those things that I mind in it haven't gone anywhere.

But that was not the only piece of beer news I found during my visit to Kopyto. Among the offer of draught beers, which includes Vévoda and Velen, there was Merlín, the brand new product of the group. According to its press release, this black lager has been inspired by Stouts and that's why roasted barley is listed among the ingredients.

I was looking forward to this beer. Kelt, another Stout inspired black lager was a pretty decent brew from Pivovary Staropramen, which unfortunately, In-Bev decided to discontinue, and I wanted to see how they wold compare.

Disappointing, that's the best way to describe it. I don't remember if roasted barley was used for Kelt, but I do remember that it had a more intense roasted edge than Merlín, which in the end tasted like a bog standard dark lager, with very short and boring caramel and those unfitting Protivín yeasts. Perhaps it's better in bottles, but after having tasted in on tap I don't think I'm willing to pay the 20+CZK they want for a 0.33l measure, for that money I'd much rather buy Master 18º.

Anyway, despite this, I still want KBG to do well with the tanks. Who knows, perhaps if they are successful they might start tanking up the other pale lagers of their portfolio, some of which are much better than the flagship brew. I also wish success to Kopyto, I was left with the impression that the owners are people who want to do things well and besides, Lobko does have a good number of adepts who I'm sure will appreciate the possibility to drink this beer at its best.

Na Zdraví!

Restaurace Kopyto
Bořivojova 116
Praha 3 — Žižkov
+420 774 666 604
info@kopyto.cz
50°4'56.391"N, 14°26'42.656"E

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2 comments:

  1. I Really used to Like Kelt. Badly Missed.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for a new pub review. I have missed them!

    (But I do understand that you are saving the reviews for the book.)

    ReplyDelete