Tax time!

Normally nobody would go with a smile to the tax office to leave their tax return. I'm not an exception. Taxes got me in a bad time, my finances still more than a bit shaken after moving. Fortunately, not far from my tax office there is a place that I had wanted to visit for some time, U Klokočnika. If beer prices at U Rokytky date from 2002-3, those at U Klokočnika are still older.

But it's not just any beer they tap there. I wouldn't go to such a remote place just for a Gambáč, no matter how cheap it can be (well, after having a look at my bank balance, I might consider it). What you can find there are the beers of Pivovar Kácov.

Pivovar Kácov is something between a brewpub and a small industrial brewery. Some of its capacity is used by Pivovarský Klub to brew Štěpán, and by the former brew master of Ferdinand to brew his brand Bohemia Gold. According to the brewery's web page (it's only in Czech, but if you still want to have a look at it, go to www.pivovarkacov.cz), they were established in 1457 and, as many others, went through many hands before ending up with their current owners.

U Klokočnika, a prototypical corner pub, is the only place where you can find Kácov every day. There are few concessions to modernity, the daily menu is handwritten and photocopied. The patrons are mostly workers from the nearby workshops, during lunch, and the local drunkards the rest of the day. The food is solid hospoda. But what I've have eaten, though didn't make me moan in pleasure, wasn't half bad. In fact, the chips are among the best I've had in Prague. I'm not certain, but they looked and tasted home made.

Kácov brews four beers on a regular basis, all available at this hospoda. Desítka and Dvanactká both čisté (clean, as the waiter calls them) or kvasnicové.

I've tasted all of four. I haven't got much to say about 12° čisté, it was just your average golden lager, nothing memorable, nothing bad either. The kvasnicové is a tad more interestng. Deep gold, with the almost expected cloudiness of these kind of beers (thought it must be added that it is unfiltered). The nose is really dry, with grapefruit, mint and cannabis notes. The taste is mild, also on the dry side, with herbs predominating, though I was able to feel some subtle honey touch in the back.

Curiously, the ones I liked the best were the two cheaper beers, the desítky. The "clean" has an aroma that reminded me of citrus and green apples. It also tastes dry, with an intense herbal finish, that leaves a lingering citrusy aftertaste. One of those beers that are great on a hot summer day. It's kvasnicové was my favourite of the lot. It's almost undistinguishable to the eye from it's big sister. We start feeling the difference with the nose. I felt pears and herbs (mostly mint) and the taste is deliciously fruity at first with a surprise bitter charge on the finish, very pleasant. This is a beer that I would love to have in summer on tap on my terrace. Delicious.

Barring the last one, I found all the beers too carbonated, to the point of being a little annoying on the 12°čisté. Also, barring the last one, none shook my world, and still then I prefer Chýně's. Now if we consider the prices I paid for these four beers at this pub, the value for money balance is more than positive. Oh! The prices? Just have a look at the photo below. I don't think you can find anything cheaper in Prague.

I will certainly go back to U Klokočnika, I liked the atmosphere. In summer it must be a very pleasant place to have a few piva with friends sitting at the tables under those for sure leafy trees in front of the pub.

Might seem hard to reach at first sight, but it isn't so. Just take tram 18 to the second to last stop, Na Veselí, and then keep walking 200m until you see it. Can't miss it!

Restaurace U Klokočníka
Na Veselí 702/48
140 00 Praha-Nusle