17 Jun 2008

Well connected

At first sight Privní Pivní Tramvaj (First Beer Tram) might look like a dive, and maybe at second and third sight as well. It's located right next to the last stop of tram 11, in Spořilov, the northern end of that monument to twisted Communist social mentality that is Jizní Město, an endless forest of paneláky that can bring down even the most upbeat character. It can't be any further from the tourist crowds.

After gathering a bit of courage and walking in, we can see that, what looked like any other of the millions of Gambáč pubs, is actually something much more interesting. We can notice a very particular atmophere. It's a small place, its chairs are actually benches rescued from old trams and the walls are decorated with paintings and rock posters. It's eeriely quiet in the afternoon, you can almost start to miss the almost dispossed local drunkard loosing his last coins at the fruit machine while cheap vodka, but that's just for a second or two.

Surprises don't end there, though. Beer is what brought me to this SPP hospoda of 2006. Of course they tap something else and better than the usual stuff from Pilsen, I wouldn't have gone all the way there if not. There is Primátor Weizen at 26Kc for a very well drafted pint. That might be enough, but there's more; the fourth tap. This pub must be the pioneer of the rotating taps in Prague. Anything can be found there, on my last visit they had Opat 12° kvasnicové, a very fruity light amber beer that can be almost chewed.

It's really worth going all the way there. I don't think the service speaks any language other than Czech, but they are really friendly and I don't think they will mind a few barbarians visiting in small numbers.
První Pivní Tramwaj
Tram 11 - Spořilov
opens at 2PM

Choose your preferred Prague hotels and get free transport.

8 comments:

  1. hi:) Pivni Tramway is one of my favourite place in Prague; i've become addicted to kvasnicovy Opat; in fact one of the "waiters" speaks English.. I know it's a bit strange questions, but have You visited the toilet there? cause there are some pretty nice drawings on the tails made by local artist
    and what i personally like the most:when i'm leaving,the barwoman rings this funny tram bell

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  2. Hi there!!
    Great that you bring it up. I have been to the toilets, and yes, they are really cool. Probably the nicest loos in Prague....
    I like the service there a lot. Its a great place.

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  3. Wow. I've seen this place many times and never had the courage to go in. Actually, I never knew there was a *reason* to go in. Now I know. Very cool. Thanks for letting us all know.

    By the way, I gave you a plug on my latest blog post -- concering the 15-degree Cerna Hora.

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  4. I must confess that if I didn't know the treasures hidden in that hole, I would have never even considered taking the tram there...
    It's a true gem. Do visit it next time you are around, you won't regret it.

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  5. I've been in here a couple of times. First time I was there they had Opat Bitter - top-quality beer which I've returned to again and again. Second time I can't remember what they had. I have a friend coming to visit from Scotland next week. I think another visit there is in order...

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  6. I think you could do a mini pub-crawling. Starting maybe at tramwaj, then going to Bašta that opens at 3 and end the day at Zlý Časy. You will really impress your friend.

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  7. Fear not, I have a kind of a plan...as it happens I live just 10 minutes' walk away from Pivovarsky klub, from where I can also get a 24 tram to Zly casy, Bulovka and the rest... :)

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  8. Speaking of good connections!!!

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